Summer Solace

Hello again, dear friends and family. The summer is full blast and we're through the first week of above-100-degree weather. No word on if another will hit us, but right now things are delightfully balmy.

We've been busy. Here's a summary:
I got ordained as a minister and officiated two friends' weddings. They didn't want to do anything complicated or large, so having a friend help out was impossible to ignore. The big days were flawless, and everything went just fine. Hanmi shot the weddings and the photos are beautiful.

Han's working on some new websites. They are not only well-done, but quite informative. If you're in the area, give these businesses a visit
FixYourOwnBack.org: using doctor-approved gentle exercises.
Shasta Trout: When you want the best trout-fishing excursion possible.
h2meyer.com: The most beautiful photography ever.
Padre Pio: Cool Tunes
Diamond-Cut Life: Sustainability Blog and News. Great ideas for living great the low-impact way.

We're both back to full climbing season, with 3 or 4 trips out per week, getting set for nice trips to Smith Rock, Leavenworth, and Red Rocks.

Han is now selling "The Hotness" BBQ Sauce. If you want some, just let us know. We have testimonials from all over our circle of friends: This stuff is THE best BBQ sauce you'll ever try. It's hot, not too sweet, and full of a flavor.

Padre Pio has a show coming up! If you're in the area, stop in and let us entertain you.

Until next, time, be sure to kiss your chick.

Climb like a girl!

In other news, climbing season is officially in full swing. We haven't been to the rock gym since April, and Jim and I are both proudly sporting the battle scars of climbing on real rock. I look a bit like a kid who's just started to run - my knees and shins are all bruised and scabbed from my recent ascents/attempts of several climbs featuring burly roof problems.

Historically, roof climbs were the source of much angst for me. Jim loves them, and being that when he has a reach of close to 8 feet, rarely finds himself unable to reach a hold. I, on the other hand, can reach about 6 1/2 feet, which often leaves me "short" [pun intended]. As such, I have to figure out another way to get through the crux, often making several more energy burning moves along the way. On hard climbs [5.10+ and up for me] I find that I pretty much get one shot to pull the move and if I hesitate or get the sequence wrong, I'm done - subsequent attempts, even after hang dogging and resting my arms are completely futile.

But I have been successful lately on some pretty spicy routes, and that seems to be feeding a new passion for the once dreaded roof climb. I am especially a fan of routes that require at least as much finesse and technique as they do brawn to get through. Sometimes my small stature proves to be an advantage as I can walk my feet way up so that I'm pretty much crouching under the roof, rest, then lean out or over and stand up to reach the next hold. This is far less strenuous than just trying to grab the next hand hold and pull myself over with just my arms, not to mention the fact that I often cannot reach the "next" hold. The best part is that occasionally it will get me through something that will shut down climbers much taller and stronger than myself. Those moments, combined with the huge confidence boost in my climbing ability combine to form the candy that keeps me coming back for more.

First Harvest of the Season!

We enjoyed our first harvest from this year's garden last week. The planter box in our front yard was planted with wild mustard greens, wild kale, and wild lettuce seeds back in February when it seemed the last frost had passed. The long, cold winter made the seedlings grow very slowly, until the recent spikes in temperature we've experienced here in Portland. The temperature neared 100° F less than two weeks ago, then dipped back in to the 50's this past week. But the brief warm spell made the mustard and kale grow like crazy and we were able to harvest enough to make a nice sized batch of braised greens for the two of us. Unfortunately, we had another unseasonably hot day this weekend, and now two of the mustard plants have bolted... It has been delightful, however, to watch them grow into such a lush and delicious bounty. Hopefully we'll be able to enjoy the mustard for a few more weeks before they all go to seed. I am hoping next week we'll be able to get our first salad from the garden.

My, what a busy summer!

It's officially fall here in Portland. The chickens are pretty much full grown, [we'll be looking for eggs in the next month or so], the pumpkins have been harvested, the last of the tomatoes are slowly ripening, the bathroom has been gutted and the remodel is in full swing, we've renewed our climbing gym memberships, the fenders are back on the bikes, we've been eating figs off neighborhood trees and checking the fallen chestnuts for little treasures.

Jim has been working very hard and very long hours over the summer, so our adventuring has been minimal. Instead we've put a lot of energy into projects in and around the house: a new roof for the deck, gardening, and the bathroom remodel. The demolition began 3 weeks ago, and the skylight is being put in as I write. The framing of the new lofted ceiling/walls has begun and almost all of the components and fixtures have been ordered. Where we could we've bartered with friends to keep costs down and keep the money "in the family". We're going as green as possible--to the point that it hurts at times! It's been a lot more work to research and specify truly green products, but it is worth it. In most cases we're actually saving money over the conventional route. We're doing our best to keep it local, too. I'll do another post later with all the details and final specs and, of course, photos. Today I just wanted to post a quick update to let you know all is well.

I've been getting several requests for portrait work, and in fact have one this weekend in Seattle with my friend Lisa. Once the remodel is done, I'll be able to focus on building a business. But for now I've dusted off my design hat and busted out my tape measure and clipboard and play Designer/General Contractor most days and evenings. It's actually been pretty fun, and in spite of all the dust and inconvenience of taking our only bathroom to the studs, it hasn't presented too much hardship. We still have a working toilet and tub, but eventually everything will need to come out to do the floors, which is when I expect we'll have a couple of rough days. But our neighbors have offered to let us use their bathrooms and we can shower at the climbing gym, so it shouldn't be too bad.

Now I'm off to order lights, call the plumber, and go to Pro Photo Supply...

First Thursday Exhibition Opening Tonight!!

Come downtown TONIGHT and join us at the reception for my first photography exhibit entitled, A Sense of Place. This is a solo show comprised of images captured over the past two years spanning four continents. There will be free drinks, & treats. If you can't make the opening, the show will run through the end of September. Hope to see you there!

August 2nd 6pm-8pm

Morning Star Cafe
510 SW 3rd Avenue
Portland, OR 97204

Much to do!

So much has been going on, so little being blogged about... I now know why people end up busier than ever once they retire... this retirement=boredom idea is a complete myth... urban legend, even. I suppose there could exist someone so unimaginative, so completely without inspiration that they must always have someone directing them, but thankfully I know of no one that fits that description.

As for me, there has been the website, chicken coop, garden, new planter boxes, djing a high school reunion, sweeping the 2007 Backyard BBQ Iron Chef competition, bike rides, discovering new restaurants, hanging with the neighbors, teaching young chickens new tricks, putting a show together, creating a studio/office space, taking photos, and learning to get comfortable marketing myself. In fact, there's been so much going on, I've only gone climbing 3 times since retiring!

My next week or so will be devoted to getting some marketing materials together, as I have a show opening on First Thursday! The evening of August 2nd will be the official opening downtown at the Morning Star Cafe. Save the date! More details to come. If you want to be added to the mailing list, please send me me an email.

[where: 510 SW 3rd Ave, Portland, OR 97204]

Han's Adventure

Some random Hanmi on my card

Granite Dells at Watson Lake

The past three days have been of us climbing in different crags in this area around Prescott. The Watson Lake area (Granite Dells climbing crag) was short and interesting. It was here that Hanmi felt more open to start leading again, and put up a mild climb, then top-roped a steeper short problem I wanted to play on.

Then, we scrambled over to “Thor’s Wall” – which holds a menagerie longer and more difficult problems. The rock at this crag overall is of an eroded quartzite, similar to Joshua Tree in rounded blobs, however they are even sharper and of larger crystals than J-Tree.

Ben had mentioned of a few 10-ish trad leads on Thor’s Wall, so we went to scope them out. I became distracted for a short time by an intriguing problem that seemed like a hard 11 or low 12. I made it about 2 moves up that one, then down-climbed and pulled pieces.


Humbled, I racked up and began another climb in the 10 range. After 2 moves, again I froze and found myself refusing to commit to the balance of a thin problem above my gear. After several tries and lots coaching from Hanmi, I lowered frustrated. In my annoyance, I suggested she give it a shot.

After only a split second of consideration, she was shoes on and rack-ready. At the move, she threw a high foot and slowly rocked onto it, hands only balanced on the thinnest of features. She clipped the last sparse bolt and then had a great time climbing up and placing solid gear. She topped out shortly afterward and belayed me up on a trad anchor.

I couldn’t have been more delighted and proud of watching her meet the anxiety of a true lead at her climbing limit and sending the route onsite. After a lot of hugs and kisses and a scramble down, we headed into a hotel room to clean up for celebratory dinner. Going back to where we found great lunches, we ate braised lamb shank and whiskey glazed pork loin. We had skipped a proper lunch, so dinner had all the courses, from a salad with bread, to soup, main course then dessert. A bottle of wine and a short trip back to the hotel room and solid sleep followed.